摘要：本课题研究了CK One Shock For Him Calvin Klein for men香水的仿制技术。此香水头香组成有薰衣草，克莱门氏小柑橘和黄瓜，体香组成有桂花，小豆蔻，罗勒和胡椒，底香组成有麝香，广藿香，龙涎，烟草和木香。本实验通过嗅闻样品和借助GC-MS的分析，来确定此香水的香韵组成和香气特点。然后在GC-MS的基础之上且结合嗅辨不断修改调整各路香韵香气，掌握天然原料的选用和香气特点和它们对于整体的协调性改善，香韵的补充圆合等。其结果为烟草香：20～22%、新鲜辛香：18～21%、龙涎香：15～17%、甜香：13～15%、温暖辛香：11～13%、芳香：9～11%。通过三角测试的辨香实验，最终配制出一个有较高相似度，且香气透发，和谐，持久的香精作品。仿制的香水能够在市场上拥有一定的研究价值。61795

毕业论文关键词： 香韵；GC-MS；仿香；香水；香料

The imitation of the perfume: CK One Shock For Him Calvin Klein for men

Abstract: This Subject Research is about the imitation of the perfume: CK One Shock For Him Calvin Klein for men. Its top notes are lavender, clementine and cucumber; middle notes are osmanthus, cardamom, basil and pepper; base notes are musk, patchouli, amber, tobacco and woodsy notes.  Experimental objective is making sure about the notes of the perfume by smelling the benchmark and analytical data of GC-MS. Keep improving the aromas of different notes on the base of GC-MS and by smelling; know the best selections for natural materials, their improvement to the overall harmony and supplement to the missing notes. The result includes Tobacco: 20～22%, Fresh spicy: 18～21%, Amber: 15～17%, Sweet: 13～15%, Warm spicy: 11～13%, Aromatic: 9～11%. Through a series of experiments on fragrance identifying, get a high similarity fragrance to the sample with strong, harmonious and long lasting aroma is required finally. The imitation perfume has research value in the market.

KeyWords：notes; GC-MS; imitation; perfume; raw materials

目录

1 前言1

1.1 香水的起源及其发展1

1.2 ＣＫ品牌的故事.2

1.3 香水的香气..3

2 实验4

  2.1  实验仪器及设备.4

  2.2  实验原料.4

  2.3  实验内容和方法.4

2.3.1  通过嗅辨确定样品的香气分路4

2.3.2  GC-MS分析5

2.3.3  香精仿制5

2.3.4  香气的感官评定5

2.3.5  香水的制备.5

3 结果与讨论.6

  3.1  GC-MS分析报告的整理及分析6

3.1.1  天然香料的确定9

3.1.2  动物香类香料的确定..9

  3.2  初步配方的确定10

  3.3  各香韵原料对香精香气的影响13

3.3.1  烟草香韵原料对香精香气的影响13

3.3.2  柑橘果香香韵原料对香精香气的影响..16

3.3.3  辛香香韵原料对香精香气的影响20

3.3.4  木香香韵原料对香精香气的影响24

3.3.5  芳香香韵原料对香精香气的影响28

3.3.6  动物香香韵原料对香精香气的影响.32

3.3.7  甜香香香韵原料对香精香气的影响.36

3.3.8  香精香气的比较和测评..40

4 结论..41

致谢.45

参考文献..46

 1 前言

1.1 香水的起源及其发展

在欧洲，公元12世纪十字军在侵征塞浦路斯时带回一种名为“素心兰”的香水（Eau de Chypre）,当时有一种形似鸟身的锭剂，燃烧时可散发出优美的香气，用岩蔷薇、苏合香、菖蒲等制成，后来加入了橡苔，这就是“素心兰”香型的来源。